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11 posts • Page 1 of 1
by Marcel DuShrimp » Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:50 am
got the reel seat and cork grip epoxied.
however, i've got two slightly different sized winding checks. do they send two just to make sure you have a good fit? and are these epoxied on or wrapped on with thread? the videos i'm watching don't talk about the winding check.
by david4784 » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:04 am
Not sure why your kit came with two winding checks but then again I have never bought a pre-made kit. I always custom select all my parts myself.
I would try both of the winding checks that you have and see what one fits the best on your blank and also your cork. I'd select the one that fits the best on your blank and that also covers your hole in your cork handle.
Putting on the winding check isn't hard at all. Cover your cork with a little masking tape (to protect the cork), add a little epoxy around the end of the cork where it meets the blank (dry fit it first so you can tell where the epoxy should go)
Must videos that I have seen do not show putting on the winding check but just tell you what to do. The video below is no different but he does a great job in showing you how to build a rod as well as the process.
Hope that helps
by SSG Steelhead » Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:20 am
I would assume that you are talking a rubber or platic winding check? If so just pick the one that fits best. If it is metal one make sure that it does not fit to tight! A tight winding check will cause a rod to break! it does not allow the rod to flex and creats a "binding point"
As far as how to mount it. Most times I will put it on when I put the handle on and there will be a little bit of epoxy that is left there and I will just push it in. If you get a some epoxy on the check or handle just wipe it off with a little denatured alcohal. No problem.
When you wrap the butt and finish it it will hold the check on as well. It will not move, don't worry.
Best of luck on your build!
by david4784 » Tue Feb 15, 2011 2:43 pm
I didn't buy a rod dryer/turner either until I built a few rods. I now have a custom built rod dryer that cost me about $20. You can see it in the photo below. It's not the best but it works for now. I have plans to buy a nice one some day soon
by SSG Steelhead » Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:50 pm
You do not need one it only makes it easier. You can hand turn in 180deg at a time every few minutes when the finsih starts to "sag" time will increase as it cures. Stop flipping when the finish stops saging. It will work just fine, I have done it this way many times. Just takes time. Set it up next to the chair and do it while watching tv or something.
by Marcel DuShrimp » Mon Feb 21, 2011 2:44 pm
going pretty well so far. a put one coat of epoxy on the wraps last night. i should be able to do the second tonight. i'm going to let it sit for a few days before i handle it, take pics, and take it out for a spin on some grass.
trying to get the guides lined up (snake guides) and to stay in place while i wrap them was a little challenging. had to readjust after wrapping one end before doing the other. i used masking tape to hold them.
a china marker would have been helpful, i used tape and marked that.
i made an alcohol lamp to singe the wraps. that seemed to help smooth them out a bit. they were 'fuzzy'. my kit came with fishhawk brand thread, size a-100m. i'm assuming this is an economy level thread and may be the cause of my problem.
i was a little freaked out about dust getting on my wet epoxy. my place is impossibly dusty and i have a dog that stirs that up. surprisingly, the first coat looks pretty good considering. also, i was able to put on the high build epoxy thin like i was hoping for. i warmed the bottles before mixing and as i was applying it i could wick the excess away with my brush.
one concern is that i didn't get epoxy under the guides on the first coat like i read about. i just forgot. i'm going to do that on the second coat. this probably makes for a weaker guide but not much i can do now. any thoughts on this?
the lamp for singeing thread wraps:
the wick is just a cotton ball stretched out. there's also a hole in the top for the displacement of the liquid.
i'll have pics in a few days.
by SSG Steelhead » Tue Feb 22, 2011 10:37 pm
Fish Hawk thread is O.K. I have some and use it here and there. Not my favorite but no issues. A little burning will fix most things. I had the same problem a few builds back. After the first coat of finish I just cut off the "issues" with a sharp razor and applied the second coat as usual. No issues.
As far as "filling the guide tunnel" you can do it on your second coat without an issue. You can do so with the brush or if you feel better you can use a fly tying bobbkin or tooth pick to "touch" the area and allow the finish to follow in there. Check it after a few minutes because that is a great spot for bubbles as it flows in there. If you get one just hit it with some heat then fill it again.
As for the guides, do not sweat it. I put mine on with tape as well, wrap them and move as needed in the end. If you wrap them right you will be able to move the guides a little. I do not tape them on as if they will never move. Some might but I will always move after the fact prior to finishing.
Post some when done. Good luck.
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