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How to rig your gear for Steelheading fishing, Questions and answers...about methods, equipment, and steelhead fly fishing gear.
by chad1534 » Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:10 pm
I'm looking to get an 8 wt 9' rod for a Great Lakes Tribs for Steelhead/Browns/Salmon. Just wondering what everyone thinks would make a better rod for this purpose, ultra fast or fast? I wouldn't classify myself as an expert caster, but I've been fly fishing for awhile.
Last edited by chad1534 on Thu Mar 04, 2010 8:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
by pmjasper » Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:17 pm
It stinks cause it's almost like you need two rods, one for browns and steelies and another for salmon. My steelie rod is a 10' 7wt rod while I have a 9' 9wt for salmon. Answering your question, I think the fast action rod would be a good choice, better then the super fast.
by buckeye17 » Thu Feb 18, 2010 12:35 pm
You can do it all on a 8' 9wt fast action rod in the great lakes tribs. I used that setup for browns/steel/and salmon for around 5 years. I just recently went to a 12' 9wt spey for salmon fishing just to try something different.
by pmjasper » Mon Feb 22, 2010 8:52 am
Depends.....what size streams are you fishing?
I fish a few streams in WI and for most my 10 ft, 7wt gives me more control to mend line, swing streamers, etc. That being said, I also fish one very small, tangly stream with little room for a 10 ft rod. For that situation I went with an 8'6" 6wt. I lose some line control with mending but then again I'm not casting as far and the reduced length of the rod just makes things easier. If I was to go with one rod, I'd probably lean toward the extra 6" and go with a 9'6'.
by tpcollins » Tue Mar 02, 2010 10:51 am
In addition to the size of the stream, I would think the amount of current would have a considerable affect. On the Big Manistee, a 7 wt will work for Steelhead but I really lean towards an 8 wt so that I can muscle it around more instead of playing all day trying to wear it out.
For Salmon on the same river, my best rod is a Sage 9 1/2' 9 wt. I have an 11 1/2' GLX 8/9 wt that I previously used, and although I can chuck a spawn bag almost all the way across the river, the longer rod has the bend point further from my hands and really makes fighting BIG fish a real struggle sometimes at my age, even with a modified longer grip. My 9 1/2' Sage 9 wt had an additional foregrip installed when it was custom made by a builder from Minnesota - great rod!
The link below shows a 12 wt but it is exactly how my 9 wt looks.
http://forums.sportfishingmag.com/showt ... p?t=562145
by eddiewardo » Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:47 pm
In my opinion you need to try a few rods if possible. Find a buddy who has a lot of rods and borrow a few. If that isn't possible, visit a fly shop nearby your house and ask them about the rods. Usually the guys in the shop will have some great advice and let you feel the rods in question. They may even have a rod they would sell you. You mentioned buying a used rod too. I am not sure how much that will cost you, but I have been able to get some nice custom rods made for $200 otd.
Hope it helps.
by RiverWrangler » Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:34 am
new and confused.
I have been studying this forum for a while. and yet to experience the pleasure of landing my first steelhead. so, please forgive my ignorance.
but, can anyone please explain the difference between a fast and an ultra fast rod? and, how would it matter in terms of using it in a particular water for a particular species?
by pmjasper » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:07 am
Let me first say that those who build rods, and there are a few good ones on this site, can explain this much better than I can, but i'll take a stab at it:
Slow, Medium, Fast, Ultra fast refer to the action of the rod throughout the blank. Typically, a slow action will have give throughout the entire blank, medium has a bit more backbone towards the butt section, a fast action is "stiffer" yet and has give in the tip section of the rod to say the second eye or two and an ultra fast action has give primarily in the tip section, with the remainder of the rod being relatively stiff. depending on the type of fishing you are doing, action of the rod is key. You would not want a slow action rod for deep jigging, as it just does not have the backbone to effectively lift the jig. A stiffer action rod would be a much better choice. Conversely, a real fast action rod might not be the best choice for fishing light line, where give is needed to act as a shock absorber for the light line/leader, etc.
by RiverWrangler » Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:55 am
Thanks for explaining it for me. original poster, sorry for positing my questions in your post.
Now, I am trying to understand the application of fast and ultra fast rods in practical situation. Lets say, winter condition demands sink tip line, split shot, weighted nymphs, etc. Also, as because fish are less active and may refuse presentations that are a little bit off, we need to use light tackle (leader, tippet etc).
So, what rod would be more appropriate for that? fast action and stiffness of a fast action rod or ultra fast action and ultra stiffness of an ultra fast rod.
finally, if I am fishing for Browns and steelhead in the same stream/river system, do I have to change rod when I am targeting specific species?
by pmjasper » Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:44 pm
Well there are no easy answers and rod actions do vary from manufacturers to manufacturers and between spinning rods versus fly rods.
You have two opposite things working in your scenario....you have the heavier sink tip line and added weights but you are fishing lighter tippet. Most likely a medium-fast action rod would be a good choice, although some might not have the stiffness to effectively turn over the line time and time again. I would not see the need or advantage for an ultra fast tip, as with the lighter tippet, I would prefer more shock absorbsion.
Now you second question will vary too. You stated you are fishing similar waters for the browns and steelhead, thus, one rod should suffice for most of your fishing applications. however, if you are fishing small spring creeks for browns and larger rivers for steelhead, you may want to eventually consider more than one rod.
by tpcollins » Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:05 pm
I think pmjasper explained it pretty well. The only thing I would add is the faster the action, the further the "bend point" is away from your hands. If you're fighting a good sized Steelhead with a really fast action and he decides he doesn't want to be landed, he'll put you to task. It will be a bit easier to control him though. If you have a more moderate or moderate-fast action (which I prefer), the bend point is closer to your hands and gives you more fish-fighting leverage in the same situation. It would absorb the fighting shock abit more as well.
I've always thought that fast, extra fast, or ultra fast is just a marketing strategy to make you think you're getting something special that might not be necessary. I can see a really fast action for ripping Bass out of the lilly pads but wouldn't be my favorite chioce for Salmon/Steelhead.
by Seanahee » Wed Mar 17, 2010 11:45 am
Scott S3 in 9'6" 8-weight -- great for indicators for steelhead, can strip/swing streamers, and solid for larger trout.
Not sure I'd want to do salmon on it, but I have a low-cost TFO Signature in 9' 10-weight for those antics -- cheap and with a solid guarantee.
If S3 or S4 are too pricey, I love my A2 in 6 weight. I'm sure the larger one's are equally good.
Definitely go for the extra length. My 9'6" is perfect for wide range of streams from PM to smaller UP tribs.
by maxwellcreek » Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:52 pm
Medium action 7 weight is perfect. If you use an 8 weight on small tribs you will certainly overpower browns rainbows and smaller steelhead. A7 weight can handle salmon on the salmon river without any problem. I personaly use a 9 1/2 foot 5 weight for steelhead in a fast action however it's really a medium action and a medium 7 weight in 9 1/2 ft for salmon. They work great!
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