Hey guys!
I was wondering does all skagit lines require the use of cheaters? I've been reading around and it says that the head and sink tip should equal 3 to 3.5 times the rod length but most of the head lengths on the line available does not equal 3 to 3.5 times the rod length or requires you to use 10plus ft. of sink tip (I'm only planning to use at the most 7-9ft of sink tip). I was thinking of getting a skagit line for my beulah switch to see which style I like since I already have the elixer which is a scandi type style line. You're input is always appreciated! Thanks again guys!
Sat May 25, 2013 11:05 pm :: TSS Main Page ‹ View topic - Skagit Lines
|
Navigate Our Waters
Reports Summary Rigging Forum Spey Forum Fisheries Forum Classified Ads Fly Patterns Forum Tying Techniques Forum Announcements Centerpin Forum Tips For Our Forums Has TSS helped you? If so, why not help us. Pledge your support. ![]() New Scientific Anglers System 4 Reels Made in the USA! Streamside Info Fly Shops Guides Steelheading Articles Run Timing Stream Flow Data Sunrise/Sunset Data Moon Phase Data Weather Data ![]() St Croix Fly Rods! Steelheading Gear 1900+ Fly Patterns Fly Collections Fly Boxes Leaders Fly Lines Fly Reels Centerpin Reels Fly Rods Switch Rods Double Handed Rods Rod Finder™ Fly Fishing Accessories Gear Bags & Luggage Pontoon Boats Float Tubes New Items Sale Items ![]() Bob James Centrepin Reel - Model 2080 |
Skagit LinesDiscussions and topics that relate to the art and practice of Spey Double-Handed Fly Fishing. Methods, spey gear and advice concerning a very wide range of Spey Fishing topics.
Moderators: Thomas Steele, bombcast Skagit Lines
alot of skagit casters have been going shorter and shorter - I will often use a skagit short (20') with a 10' tip with my 6126 - this comes out to around 2.4 times rod length.
As Slint suggests you just need a very compact casting stroke so you don't pull your anchor - but this rig will fly with almost no effort
If you are pulling your anchor, shorten your stroke or add a cheater if not 'let r rip'
One additional helpfull thought is to make you leader at least (minimjum) as long as your rod. Even longer is better.
This will help considerably in setting the anchor and allow shorter heads. All of the above is incorrect, I did not fully read the first posting question. If you are pulling your anchor, one suggestion is to slow down and make your forward cast more compact. I struggle with anchor holding and 4' sink tips, changing to 6' and longer are not a problem with my casting style. Regards, FK Last edited by FK on Fri May 06, 2011 4:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
A longer leader is not needed in skagit casting. often my leader is 4ft or less. That being said it is on the end of section of T-11 so the tip and leader is about the lenght of the rod. The leader is not as important as it is in 'touch and go casting' like scandi style.
it's alittle late but...... I use a intermed cheater on my switch with a rio compact 425. Only reason for this is to make the line o tight and I didn't feel it did with just my t 11. I truthfuly don't see the need for t14. Even with my scandi lines I keep thhe same thing long tip short leader but I also chop them to get to the grain windows I want for the rods and that they are short and heavy.
Re: Skagit Lines
A cheater is only used when the rod is 3.5 times longer then the shooting head. If you are running a spey rod under 13' you should be alright. Remember the sink tip also counts for length and grain weight. Good luck
Re: Skagit Lines
I think that the tip length is included in the head vs. Rod length calculation, but the weight of the tip is disregarded with a sustained anchor cast (Skagit).
Re: Skagit Lines
I don't know many people using shooting heads under 5 feet
Re: Skagit Lines
I bought a Loop Yellow 9140 this winter and finally got the chance to cast it today for the first time. With a 14' rod while using a Airflo Skagit compact I found it necessary to add a 4' cheater to keep from blowing the anchor. Even when I shortened my stroke....blown anchor. So in my opinion adding a cheater is a matter the person casting ability(to shorten stroke) as well as the lenth of the rod they are casting.
It is amazing the difference 1' can make, I also have a Loop Adventurer 9130 which I have no anchor problems without a cheater, go figure. So try adding a cheater it may solve your problem. If you don't want to spend the cash on a set of cheaters, try making some homemade ones if you have some old 11/12 L, WF or DT fly line. Cut to the lenth you think you need from the thickest part of the line, loop the ends and give it a test drive. Just my 2 cents, Rich McNamara
12 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Return to Spey fishing methods and techniques Who is onlineUsers browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest
|
![]() Bleeding Prawn Collection Only: $9.94 ![]() Full Box-O-Buggers Save: 13.75% ![]() Steelhead/Salmon New Traditionals Save: 12.06% ![]() Steelhead Alley Collection Save: 12.06% ![]() Steelhead/Salmon Marabou Collection Save: 26.01% ![]() Steelhead/Salmon Essentials Collection Save: 14.40% ![]() Steelhead/Salmon Signature Series Collection Save: 16.73% ![]() Steelhead/Salmon Extreme Collection Save: $40.01 All Fly Collections |
© 1996-2013 steelheadsite.com All Rights Reserved.












